Jorge Bru Romeu es chef en
El Palmar, una población del lago de La Albufera de Valencia donde se cultiva
exclusivamente arroz. Atesora de aquí recuerdos de su infancia cuando jugaba en el terreno de su bisabuelo,
donde está la trilladora del tocayo. Entre los restaurantes donde degustar
un buen arroz, mi preferido es El Graner (El Granero), el local de Jorge.
Jorge Bru Romeu is chef at El Palmar, a village of La Albufera Lake in
Valencia where rice is the only cultivation. From this place, he treasures childhood memories when he
played at his great grandfather’s piece of land, where they had the rice threshing
machine. Among all the places
to enjoy tasty rice, my favourite is El Graner (The Barn), Jorge’s restaurant.
Acerca de la paella valenciana, el plato estrella conocido internacionalmente, existen algunos dogmas culinarios. Jorge define la paella como un guiso de arroz acompañado de pollo, judías y garrofón. Este último se usa principalmente en la paella, sorprendentemente me dice que su abuela la sustituía por otra legumbre cuando no tenía.
Regarding Valencian paella, the dish famous throughout the world, there are some culinary assertions, so I asked for his opinion about them. He defines paella as a rice stew with chicken, green beans and garrofón. This latter is mainly used in paella: surprisingly he told me that his grandmother replaced it by another vegetable when there wasn't any left.
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| El garrofón tiene una textura característica / The garrofón has a peculiar texture |
Water is another key element in paella. Jorge confirmed that its hardness has an influence on the cooking of the grain. He listed other important matters: the container, the rice variety and the kind of fire: bonfire or stove. Since 1992, he prepares all paellas over a wood fire.
En la cocina valenciana existen
dos tipos de arroces. La paella se
prepara en un recipiente de metal poco hondo y el arroz absorbe toda el agua de
cocción. El arroz caldoso por el
contrario mantiene una importante cantidad de agua y se cocina en un recipiente
de barro profundo.
The Valencian cooking has two kinds of rice. Paella rice is prepared in a shallow metal pan and the water
is completely absorbed by the rice. Soupy rice -on the contrary- keeps an important amount of water and is cooked in a deep clay pot.
Según Jorge, la paella de carne es el origen de las demás
variantes de arroces de la cocina valenciana: la carne y la verdura han sido
sustituidas por pescado y marisco.
En
Valencia se prefiere la paella, lo confirma la proporción servida en su
restaurante: 15 paellas por cada 2 arroces caldosos. Su carta incluye el arroz negro cocinado con tinta de
calamar, el arroz a banda, el arroz del senyoret (arroz del señorito)
y las paellas de marisco (bogavante incluido). Aprendo algo nuevo:
en su origen el arroz a banda
era un plato caldoso, ahora se prepara como una paella.
According to Jorge, the meat paella is the origin of the varieties of
rice in Valencian cooking: fish and seafood have replaced meat and vegetables. Valencians prefer paella. The
proportion in his restaurant confirms this fact: 2 soupy rices for 15
paellas. His menu includes arroz negro (rice cooked in squid ink), arroz a banda, arroz del senyoret (young master’s rice) and the seafood paellas (lobster
included). I learned something new:
in its origin the arroz a banda was soupy rice but nowadays it is prepared like
paella.
El consejo de Jorge para
nuestros lectores cuando preparen su propia paella. “Por supuesto, que usen ingredientes locales y el arroz de
grano redondo. Lo más importante es ser consciente que este plato requiere su
debido tiempo. Hay que preparar bien todos
los ingredientes antes de empezar.”
Jorge's recommendations to our readers when preparing their own paella are: “Of course, they must use local
ingredients and round grain rice.
It is important to bear in mind that this dish requires its proper time. Take your time and prepare all the ingredients well before
cooking.”
I wanted to photograph the cereal so I went where the threshing machine is;
rice is ripening in a close plot. Like
many inhabitants of El Palmar, Jorge also grows rice. After the harvest, rice gets packed: some of this grain is sold in his restaurant, some of it is used in his
paellas.
Se ha hecho tarde y mi
acompañante se reúne conmigo tras su cita de trabajo. Volvemos al Graner
para comer. Cruzo los dedos:
“Ojalá haya arroz en el menú de hoy.
¡Sí, arroz a banda!” Cuando el caldo está listo, Jorge
nos invita a ver echar el arroz a la paella. Esta parte del ritual es muy apreciada por los visitantes
que desconocen el proceso de cocción.
Últimas preguntas culinarias hasta que nos manda de vuelta a la mesa
para comer.
It is late and my companion is back from his meeting. We go back to El Graner to have
lunch. I keep my fingers crossed:
“I wish the menu includes rice today”.
Yes, arroz a banda! When
the stock is ready, Jorge proposes to see how rice is poured in the paella. This ritual is very appreciated by
visitors who don't know the cooking process. I keep asking culinary questions until we are invited back to table.
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| Arroz a banda |
